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		<title>S24 on IR UV Industry</title>
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		<description>Recent content in S24 on IR UV Industry</description>
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			<lastBuildDate>Sun, 26 Jul 2026 02:48:31 +0800</lastBuildDate>
		
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				<title>Replacement lamp for Krones S24</title>
				<link>http://iruvindustry.com/en/posts/engineering-retrofit-compatibility-for-krones-s24-and-sidel-pet-blowing-lamps/</link>
				<pubDate>Sun, 26 Jul 2026 02:48:31 +0800</pubDate>
				<guid>http://iruvindustry.com/en/posts/engineering-retrofit-compatibility-for-krones-s24-and-sidel-pet-blowing-lamps/</guid>
				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://iruvindustry.com/images/1b9c2637d312f5383b58ed80f7a6411b.png&#34; alt=&#34;Replacement lamp for Krones S24&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1 id=&#34;getting-your-krones-s24-and-sidel-lamps-right&#34;&gt;Getting Your Krones S24 and Sidel Lamps Right&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the heat steady in a PET blowing &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.net&#34;&gt;machine&lt;/a&gt; is a pain if your lamps don&amp;rsquo;t fit perfectly. If the physical size or the electrical pull is off, you&amp;rsquo;re asking for trouble. We built our replacement lamps to solve that—whether you&amp;rsquo;re running old-school SBO platforms, the newer Matrix series, or anything in the Sidel lineup.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;The electrical side of things&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Here&amp;rsquo;s the deal: a &amp;ldquo;drop-in&amp;rdquo; replacement actually has to drop in. If you toss a lamp with the wrong resistance into a Krones S24, you&amp;rsquo;re &lt;a href=&#34;https://goldisgood.com&#34;&gt;likely&lt;/a&gt; to either burn out the tube or leave the preform too cold to mold.&#xA;We spend a lot of time calibrating the filaments. Why? Because if the heat density isn&amp;rsquo;t spot on, you get &amp;ldquo;cold spots.&amp;rdquo; And cold &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.com&#34;&gt;spots&lt;/a&gt; mean your bottle walls end up uneven, which is the last thing you want when you&amp;rsquo;re staring at a batch of rejects.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Quartz and the &amp;ldquo;click&amp;rdquo;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;We use heavy-wall quartz glass. It&amp;rsquo;s tough. It can handle the shock of heating up and cooling down over and over without cracking.&#xA;And we made sure the connectors match the OEM specs. You know that feeling when you have to force a part into a socket and you&amp;rsquo;re worried it&amp;rsquo;s &lt;a href=&#34;https://henruite.com&#34;&gt;going&lt;/a&gt; to snap? We hate that. Our lamps slide right in. No forcing, no loose contacts, and no scary arcing. You just pull the old one out, wire the new one up, and you&amp;rsquo;re back in business—no need to drill or modify your machine&amp;rsquo;s chassis.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;The trade-off (The part most people miss)&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Now, you might be tempted to go with higher wattage lamps to speed things up. Sure, you&amp;rsquo;ll get faster cycles and more throughput. But there&amp;rsquo;s a catch.&#xA;Higher wattage puts way more stress on your cooling blowers. Your oven&amp;rsquo;s ambient temperature will start to climb. If you push it too far, your preforms might actually start to deform before they even hit the blow mold. Just keep a close eye on your cooling system if you decide to crank up the power.&#xA;At the end of the day, we just focus on the physics. We get the dimensions right, the heat transfers correctly, and the lamps simply work.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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